Step 3: Shape the head/body
Starting with simple rectangles for the front and back of the body, we can add some shape to create a ‘head’ and a ‘bottom’ for the monster. If you prefer to keep the rectangle shape, no problem.
This diagram shows one suggested shape. Please dont’ feel tied to it – trim the outside edges into any shape you like. However, please do leave the full 8.5″ width around the mouth/zip area (or cut more width in the first place). There is some wiggle room in my sizing, and a generous seam allowance, but things get fiddly if the ends of the zip get too near the outer edge of the body/head pieces.
Unless you’re already confident making dolls, I strongly recommend not rounding off the bottom edge of the stack – leave at least the width of your leg tube as a flat edge. This is much easier to work with when we attach the legs. If you’d rather cut a curve there, I suggest attaching the legs after sewing up the rest of the body.
- Stack the body fabric pieces with the edges lined up, then fold the stack lengthways.
- Press the stack carefully with an iron.
- Check that the edges are still lined up – clip or pin them if needed.
- Optional: press a crease into the centre fold line to help with placing the facial features, later
- At the head end, round off the outer corner of the stack to create a head shape.
- Optional: at the bottom end, slightly round the outer corner of the stack to create a hip/bottom shape.
- Optional: at the bottom of the centre fold line, cut out a small notch for the ‘crotch’. (Recommend trying one monster without, first, unless you’re confident with doll-making – it makes adding the legs a bit trickier, later.)
- Make sure that the bottom edge of the remaining fabric is a flat edge.
- Take the stack apart and choose which piece will become the front of the body. Set the other aside.